![]() ![]() I have contacted a couple tap makers with this question but they have not given me any information beyond saying that I need to determine what's best. I want to give the customer the best threads and even though formed threads are usually better I know that sometimes the formed material can become brittle from the forming operation leading to weaker threads. I bought 3/8 Easy-to-machine SS (type 303) rod from McMaster-Carr. Supposedly the taps and dies are made out of carbon steel. I would like to form tap all the cast parts and I'm looking for advice from anyone here who hasreal world experience with sand cast aluminum parts that have had form tapped holes. of 2 - Threading Stainless Steel Rod - posted in ATM, Optics and DIY Forum: Ouside of using a lathe, is there a way to thread SS rod I bought a cheap (made in China) tap and die set yesterday. But now I'm doing a lot more sand cast aluminum parts that are various alloys, 356 being one of them. I have also tapped sand cast aluminum parts but only a few times and I don't know how well the threads held up. Die cast aluminum alloys too, though I don't know what specific alloys. We are getting into bottom tapping alot of 304 stainless steel 2-64 thru 6-32. 304 SS, 17-4 SS, 43 steel are metals I have had good luck with. ![]() I use them for not just the easy to tap materials such as 6061 and mild steel. In most cases TiN, TiCN or TiAlN coatings are used.In this study, blind hole tests were accomplished with HSS M8-taps in 1.4571 austenitic stainless steel. I'm sure there has to be some better taps available that may help.To all you folks who are actually making parts from metal, I use form taps, AKA roll taps, as much as possible. In this case the tap was a 70's vintage craftsman brand. My tap felt like it was going to snap as well but in my case I didn't have a lot to loose and twisted harder than I thought possible without breaking, but the same tap held up through 6 holes. A cut tap and a roll tap both create a thread but in a different manner. Maybe someone knows of a high end tap that would work better? I know some taps have coatings that are supposed to make them last longer, but not sure if they will make this specific job any easier. I tried tapping the hole twice with cut taps and was still reaking them due to them being so thin. I'm sure you used it while tapping as well. You mentioned using cutting oil when drilling. manufacturers achieve the best possible result. Tool geometry, design, and metallurgy have created drills and taps for stainless steel that incorporate features that make the work go more smoothly: Cutting Edges Split points have cutting edges that are often sharpened at more acute, narrow angles at the tip, which prevent the drill from walking. I think it's just the difficulty with the material that is giving you problems. ADO-SUS - Carbide drill for stainless steel & Titanium alloy. I'm sure I would have broken a tap in deeper holes as tough as the going was. Tool XPF-OIL M12x1.75 Conventional Form Tap Work Material 4130 Hole Size Ø11. I had hand taps so I did the usual 1/4 to 1/2 turn and back-up. Cut Tap 500 (Holes) Continue 100 200 (Holes) 0 Tool Life 300 400 500 12 (Holes) Chipping Tap Size M36x4.0 Work Material 1045 Hole Size Ø33.97mm Tapping Length 93mm. I'm glad they were through holes and only 1/4" deep. My recent experience is limited in ss304 to tapping about a half dozen through holes in some 1/4" material. ![]()
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